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IronPaw's 1984 PHAT42

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  • #31
    I wanted to run stock shackles in case mr plod gave me grief so I reversed the rear shackle hangers..Image694.jpgImage661.jpg

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    • #32
      I started measuring up for new shocks and in the process I replaced the 60 series pitman arm with one from a BJ74.. this gave more clearance when the front end was compressed.

      Image728.jpgImage750.jpgImage752.jpgImage762.jpgImage743.jpgImage753.jpg

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      • #33
        Cool little rig.. It kinda looked cooler as the blue and white before the rattle can job! Ha!
        How did you go about measuring up for the 60 steering box? Or was it a "This looks kinda right" job?

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        • #34
          40 is getting some love.. heres my initial to do list.
          Attached Files

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          • #35
            Just one thing what is pax? I have a similar list going on mine at the moment.
            A HJ47 that puts johnny cash's psycobilly caddilac to shame

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            • #36
              Pax = passenger.. its airline speak (used to work for one)

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              • #37
                Discovered why my alternator wasnt working...
                Attached Files

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Kevlux View Post
                  Cool little rig.. It kinda looked cooler as the blue and white before the rattle can job! Ha!
                  How did you go about measuring up for the 60 steering box? Or was it a "This looks kinda right" job?
                  Hey Kevlux,

                  hopefully better late than never with the reply.. The positioning of the steering box was pretty much by eye for the most part. With it clamped in place the steering was turned lock to lock and clearances checked. Suspension was also compressed and extended too to try and make sure it didnt bind up. Best effort really. With custom suspension relocating the diff forward it would of been hard to take measurements from someone else.

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                  • #39
                    So did some more work tonight on the 40. In the form of playing with Alternators!! I had ordered a 80A, Internally regulated alternator for a late model 2h/12ht. I ordered this from www.auto8.com.au and it arrived in a few days.

                    The main reason for ordering a 2h alternator is that 3b's are hard to find and when you do find them they are usally expensive. Add to that some of the images I've seen of 3b's show the upper adjustable tab of the case outboarded from the engine. I have previously sourced an alternator for a 3b but it appeared to be the same as that from a 2h.

                    So I figured it was a relatively safe bet to get one for a 2h. If i couldn't swap the internals over, finding another bracket and/belt wouldn't be too hard.

                    Over an hr our so I tore down my already busted 3b alt, and the new 2h alt.. along the way I found a few differences.

                    1) The top mounting point of the alternator used to tension the belt, sits close to the block (on a 3b), on a 2h it sits away from the engine (photos will help illustrate)
                    2) The pully of the 2h alt is slightly further towards the radiator, at a guess about 3-5mm
                    3) The diameter of the shaft of the alternator (can't recall what its named) is thicker on the 3b. This has flow on effects, you can't just swap over pulleys, even after swapping over the bearing on the front of the case. Also this flows onto the shaft of the vacuum pump
                    4) The splines on the 2h vacuum pump are coarse, the ones on the 3b are fine.
                    5) the shaft of the 2h alternator is longer than the 3b, with a bigger vacuum pump.
                    6) the 80A outer copper coil is 5mm or so thicker, this means the 3b inner shaft is not as aligned as it is with a thinner copper core. This flows on to the location of the brushes.
                    7) the thicker copper coil doesnt affect the lower mounting bracket adversely.

                    I'm hoping that the 3b inner shaft, the thicker 80A copper coil and the 3b vacuum pump doesnt shift the seal for the vacuum pump too far out causing a leak. I'm also hoping this issue doesnt affect the contact of the brushes.

                    I'm waiting to get steering pump seals come in from Toyota in Japan before I re-install everything and give it a test run.

                    This is also an internally regulated unit so I'm going to have to figure out how to bypass the external regulator too.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #40
                      The injection pump is held by 4 bolts.. 3 x14mm bolts and 1x12mm bracket bolt at the rear.. when you remove the fuel filter.. 2x14mm bolts are easily accessible.. the 14mm bold at the bottom need a short 14mm spanner.. better get an S-shape spanner.. be careful not to strip the bolt .. the 12mm bolt is at the rear bottom on the pump bracket easily accessible.

                      To advance timing you move the pump toward the engine.. to retard away from engine block.. do remember very small movements of the pump change timing by degrees.. you are moving pump hardly an milimeter up or down depending upon where it is injecting diesel... in my case.. my engine was 2-3 degrees retard.. i just loosened the bolts.. pushed by hand toward engine.. hardly any noticible movement of pump.. and the timing was dead on 10*/14*BTDC.
                      - See more at: http://ijc.com.pk/content/diy-toyota...jection-timing
                      For my timing adjustment list thingo..

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                      • #41
                        So is it nice not to have to have to plug this thing into the wall to charge it anymore?

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Ray185 View Post
                          So is it nice not to have to have to plug this thing into the wall to charge it anymore?
                          HAH! it needed as much charging as my mobile.. but yeh.. definately better and not worrying about not starting due to a sub par battery..

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